I am a new comer to this forum and not used to travel trailers. We recently bought A camplite that is new 21rbs i am in the act of setting up double batteries, Inverter and Midnite KID solar with 4x100W flex panels. I’ve attached a system/wiring diagram regarding the the things I’m presently setting up and you will be powering up within the day that is next 2.I would appreciate any feedback in the design to make sure a appropriate and SECURE system before We switch on!
The following is a hyperlink into the diagram.
Reviews
4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformerNight system
1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
Many thanks for reviews.
Correct the inverter that is 2000W big and is sized for operating microwave OR expresso device for several minutes each.Yes, how big the inverter may draw way too much when performing sitting idle and it is built to turn on/off effortlessly, Many Many Thanks!
All breakers and cables sizes are to spec. This is true of energy center, solar and inverter.
Wire lengths are brief runs in every full situations.i.e. all 1/0 cable good lengths add as much as 0 В· Share on Twitter
1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 cellular panels for a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery bank capabilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system along with a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for brief period, energy hungry devices.
Hi Mike,Thanks, you nailed my primary problem.
The Midnite Solar KID includes a DC GFP that We have perhaps maybe not shown because I’m nevertheless hoping to get some answers that are definitive how exactly to hookup battery pack negative (chassis connect or otherwise not) and ground (framework connect or otherwise not). The factory setup had a battery that is single attached to the framework nothing else. The energy center had all DC negative leads linked to a typical coach club that ended up being linked to the framework in addition to AC ground. AC basic and ground aren’t fused (by code bond that is just that is done at coast energy panel). Therefore my question is do I disconnect the battery pack negative from framework and then mail order bride prices leave grounds to framework? Or float ground or another thing? I’ll be setting up the GFP that connects between battery negative and ground and basically disconnects the PV+ during fault today. As shown now it will trip while you state.
Right now I’m tilting towards disconnecting trailer framework from battery pack negative.
1.2KW off grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 mobile panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank abilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system along with a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for brief period, energy appliances that are hungry.
Fundamentally all grounds get to frame. Which includes AC ground from coast and all sorts of framework grounds of elements. Battery negative normally linked to framework. We included the DC-GPF from Midnite Solar when you look at the last diagram (see express link). We setup tested today and each thing worked fine. Wire length arrived up in several reviews we had off their sources. Observe that the trip that is»round period of the 1/0 cable is not as much as 8 legs. from battery pack terminals to inverter and straight right straight back.
One small modification we will make would be to your battery pack bank grounding towards the framework ground. it is suggested that you move it through the negative battery pack post towards the typical negative coach on the reverse side regarding the shunt.
With car lots, many make use of the framework given that return for energy (DC illumination, automotive radio, and such). For which you have actually the framework to battery pack ground now will «miss» any loads that occur to get back present through their framework ground connection(s).
The battery pack bank is little for a 2,000 Watt @ 12 VDC inverter. Nominally, I would personally be suggesting a 500 Watt optimum constant AC load. (2,000 watts * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/10.5 volt battery pack cutoff=) 224 Amp nominal flow that is current maximum AC inverter rating.
1/0 cable is NEC ranked for
125 to 170 amps (in conduit)—And I would be suggesting a 1.25 Wiring+Breaker derating (224 amps * 1.25 derating= if you were going to really run the inverter near 2,000 watts for longer periods of times (more than a few minutes),)
280 Amp minimum rated Branch Circuit DC present.
By using the less conservative Marine Wiring standards, 1/0 is perfect for well over 285 Amps
You may not show breakers/fuses for a few regarding the wiring making the bus that is positive for many of this other DC loads (hitch plug, cooling fan)—You need security for anyone connections too (fuses/breakers rated to measurements of wiring).